WELL AGED HISTORY: EXPLORING TORONTO'S FOOD LANDSCAPE ON FOOT

A Muse Bouche | Alexandra Forand

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As the days are getting shorter and darker, earlier and earlier, I find it harder to cook in the evenings. I have defaulted to either picking up something on my way home from school or meeting friends at an eating establishment. It will not surprise you, dear readers, that I have had no trouble finding businesses to frequent due to Toronto’s expansive restaurant community. Last Wednesday, I found myself outside of the Peter Pan Bistro, not because I was going to partake in supper, but because it was the first stop of five on Heritage Toronto’s “Good Eats: History of Food and Dining in Toronto" walking tour, which focuses on the history of dining in Toronto.

This walking tour was conducted by Dr. Laura Carlson, a food historian, writer, the host of the Podcast ‘The Feast’, and leader of walking tours in Toronto. The first stop was the Peter Pan Bistro. Although it is now nestled in the heart of downtown Toronto, when the Peter Pan Bistro (nee the Savoy) opened 120 years ago, it was the last (or first) place a hungry traveler could purchase a hot meal since this area used to be on the edge of the old city.

Inside the Peter Pan Bistro. Source.

From the Peter Pan Bistro, Dr. Carlson led us to 238 Queen Street West. This building was once home to St. Patrick’s Market, which was built in 1912 and designated a heritage site in 1975. Today the building is mostly vacant.

238 Queen Street West. Photograph Courtesy of Alexandra Forand. 

Next the group moved on to 233 Queen Street West, and what Dr. Carlson called “a sunken ship spot” because at first glance this storefront was empty, but it was indeed stuffed with history. This was the location of the first Jewish delicatessen opened in 1900 owned by Sam and Sarah Harris. (Click here if you would like to learn more of this richly flavored history!) 

233 Queen Street West. Photograph Courtesy of Alexandra Forand.

The group pushed on to the south east corner of Nathan Phillips Square. From this vantage point we were able to see the building that is now Hudson’s Bay but used to be home of the Arcadian Court Restaurant, which was located in Simpson’s Department store. Although it might seem odd today, restaurants in department stores were not uncommon in the 20th century and were meant to attract fine ladies while they were doing their daily shopping. With the passage of time, the Arcadian has not been forgotten entirely. Bannock, the restaurant in the same building and specializes in Canadian comfort food, features the Arcadian Court Chicken Pot Pie. 

The final stop on the tour was the Senator. The diner was first opened in 1929, making it one of Toronto’s oldest restaurants. Although the establishment has changed hands since first opening, the building retains much of the original features such as the original hardwood floors in their wine bar on the second floor.

The Senator. Source.

As someone who is relatively new to Toronto, I am always surprised by the layers of history that are involved in buildings, especially dining establishments throughout the city. By taking this tour, I was able to learn about the establishments that helped to shape Toronto’s foodie landscape. If you would like to embark on the tour I took, I have created a map for you to follow below. So, dear readers, have you visited any of these restaurants and have your own stories to share? Or is there a restaurant that you love that has its own history? Let me know where I should have my next meal!